Maui, HI: the Pipiwai Trail and the Drive Back (Day 3 - Pt2)

There are a few picnic tables in the shade where you can enjoy your packed lunch against the scenic backdrop with a view of ocean.  After lunch we made sure we were fully stocked with food and water to tackle the long hike on the Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls (4 miles roundtrip through the Kipahulu Valley).

Trail map

Waimoku falls is a dramatic 400ft waterfall down a flat lava rock wall to a rocky base.  The trail ascends 650 feet and is supposed to take 4 hours (roundtrip) to complete, although we moved a little slower with the kids.  Elliot (our 3 month old) was in the baby carrier strapped to mom, while dad carried all the gear and held Evan's hand (yes, Evan hiked this entire trail up and down without a problem while Elliot slept).  The good thing about this hike is that most of it has lot of shade and a nice breeze, but it is very hot initially.  We did run into people on the way who were heading back and some who were passing us - most seemed very intrigued by the fact that we had two little children with us (we didn't see any other small children).  We didn't realize why, until we were well into the rainforest - this wasn't an easy hike (although not difficult either), but it was long and we were burdened with all the extra baggage to carry - we didn't want to turn back after starting.  As you proceed through the trail you'll see many signs warning of you of the hazards.  

At the start of the trail you may notice some fallen fruit from a group of guava and mango trees there.  The sights were beautiful all along the trail, we passed our first landmark (Makahiku Falls) and then approached our second landmark (a large Banyan tree).  This spot made for some nice photos and a short break.

The large Banyan tree- truly a sight!

Further along the trail, there is a gate - not sure why, but you have to open it and then close it behind you with a bungee cord.  Most of the trail is made of rocky and uneven ground. Then, there are some more waterfalls and streams which are crossed by a couple of sturdy bridges.  Just after this scenic area you enter a bamboo forest.  Walking through the bamboo forest was a bit of a break, since most of this section is a level boardwalk.  It was also dark, and the breeze made the bamboo trees creak and knock together like an eerie drumming.  

Walking through the bamboo forest

Once you leave the bamboo forest, the trail gets a little tougher, very steep, narrow and rocky, with cliff ledges leading to the stream below.  There was also spot where the trail has eroded a bit and you have to tread on the remaining tree roots and rocks - still nothing we couldn't handle by being very careful.  Soon we could hear the sound of falling water and knew we were close to the end (very exciting).  After the next bend we saw a pretty big challenge: we had to cross a fast flowing stream and there was no bridge.  Some people were stepping on random rocks and balancing their way across, and the rocks were very slippery.

We could see the falls through the trees from where we were and contemplated not continuing, however, the next hikers behind us approached and asked if we needed help to get across.  I decided to stay behind with Elliot, while my husband carried Evan across with the help of another hiker.  His shoes and socks got soaked, but they made it across and continued to the next stream crossing where they admired Waimoku Falls and took some pictures to bring back to me.  While I was waiting for them to return, some more passing hikers offered me assistance; thinking for a minute that it would be nice to continue, I declined again, just in time to see one of them slip on a rock and fall into the stream (she looked like she was hurt, but not seriously - her friends helped her out and they continued up).  That was enough to make me not consider it again.  

One of the better places to cross the stream

While I waited, I fed the awake and by now hungry Elliot and got a few mosquito bites.  This was the only point of the hike where I might have wanted to be wearing bug repellant - it was probably due to the pooling water by the stream.  My husband, Nigel carried Evan back through the stream on his own, their clothes muddy and their shorts, socks and shoes wet - but the hike back would give them time to dry off.  The pics of the waterfall were amazing and people were swimming at the base of the falls.  Swimming at the waterfall is not recommended because of falling rock and there have been fatalities because of this (none during the time I was there though).  Even though I wasn't able to hike all the way to the falls area, it was still worth it to catch the glimpse that I did, and to experience the great sites along the way.

Waimoku Falls

When we got back to the car we started back through the highway to the Black Sand Beach at Waianapanapa State Park (near mile marker 32).  There are steps carved out of the lava rock, to get down to the beach, which was relatively quiet.  The park at the beach also contains a sea arch and a few short trails to explore some water caves and a blowhole.  The sand here could be easily packed together by hand and feels firm under your feet when walking.  Most of the beach area is more like pebbles rather than sand.  The waves are quite strong and I wouldn't recommend swimming, although people do it.  If you're lucky may spot some sea turtles, but we didn't.

Waianapanapa Black Sand Beach 

Some other neat stops along the drive are Wailua Falls at mile marker 45, Hana (and Hana Bay), Pua'a Ka'a State Wayside Park, 3 Bears Falls (near mile marker 19 & 20), and Keane Park (between mile markers 16 & 17).  Again, where you stop will be limited to the time you intend to spend at each area and if you plan on staying overnight in Hana itself.

The sun was pretty close to setting and we needed to drive a bit more aggressively to get onto safer road by the time it was completely dark.  It got pretty dark while we were on the Hana Highway, but we were lucky there was a local ahead of us sort of guiding the way.  By the time we got to some straighter road, it was completely dark, but it was more comfortable than the blind bends - we'd done the night drive to the resort once before.  It ended up being a late night by the time we got back and we had another early morning planned for the next day: the Summit of Haleakala and the town of Lahaina.